Remember my comment on “having butterflies” when we announced my second Craftsy class? The pink butterfly on the ball cap is one of the included designs for this class and used in a few of the class examples, so I was trying to be cute and hint at the same time 🙂 So here is sneak peek #3 showing one of the included designs and yes you will see how to stitch it on a hat!
This class is going to cover all sorts of hooping techniques from everyday flat fabric hooping to creating a flat stable embroider-able surface on something like a hat that is curved and not quite “hoop-able”. I can’t give it all away just yet – but class launch is in a few days…eek! Talk about butterflies!
We’re not dreaming, this is sneak peek #2 – learn tips and tricks when using various types of multi-position hoops such as this Pfaff Dream hoop, the three position “clunk hoops”, and more! And YES, you can use these included designs to make your own all over embellished fabric, borders and more!
Bigger hoops let you embroider larger designs which will take longer to stitch. So if you’re like me, you want to start out knowing as much as possible BEFORE you start the project so that you can watch and be prepared for any “bumps in the road”. I will share with you my experiences so that you can be successful in stitching projects using multi position hoops.
Stay tuned – sneak peek #3 is up next!
Congratulations to Ashley for winning the free class giveaway for my second Craftsy class which will be available in a few weeks! I have sent you an email – so be sure to check your spam and junkmail folders in case my message was misdirected 😦 Yes, it sometimes happens!
Between comments here on the blog post, email messages sent to me and other social media posts, there were buckets of guesses as to what you would like for me to teach! To the comedians in the audience – no one wants to see what my “royal icing cookies” look like, I’m more of a drop cookie artist 😀
Here is the official title and yes this class is all about the machine embroidery hoop! From my first Craftsy class, you know that I have no fear for taking the fabric out of the hoop. So this class takes one step back and lets us explore one of the key components to machine embroidery and how to become skilled and savvy when using the Hoop!
Check back soon – sneak peek #2 is right around the corner!
So you’re stitching along and your embroidery is looking great in the hoop. All of a sudden you notice that the bobbin thread is starting to show up on top of the hoop! Don’t be touching the top tension knob! 90% of the time, the problem of bobbin thread on top of the hoop is caused by a problem under the hoop in the bobbin area.
1. Did you just change the bobbin? If so maybe you didn’t thread it through correctly OR maybe you put the bobbin in backwards. Take the bobbin out, make sure you are putting it in following the diagram and make sure that you are threading the bobbin through the path with a little bit of “secure tension” on the thread – kind of like if you were flossing teeth. Not tight and rough to cause bleeding gums! But you want to “thread with purpose” so that you are sure that the bobbin thread is going into the tension disks securely.
2. Take out the bobbin and the shuttle (the case the bobbin drops into shown to the left). Use a soft brush and clean in the machine, under and around where the case was seated. Your machine manual will have great diagrams on how to take out the bobbin, shuttle and most I’ve seen have pictures showing where to clean or where to pay attention to where the fuzz collects! NOTE: I do not use q-tips to clean this area. I use a small nylon brush or a mini sheepskin duster (looks like a pencil or chopstick with a sheepskin fur ball glued to the end). Qtips tend to shed and can snag on sharp edges adding fibers to what you are trying to remove.
3. Next, you need to clean out the tension disks of the bobbin case using a fine pin or business card. Here is a PDF file that you can download showing you a close up of what I’m talking about:
A bright light and a fine pin or business card are the best tools for the job. The fuzz that you will find may not be seen unless you shine the bright light in there and you see reflections or shadows.
I clean out my bobbin area every time I change bobbins ESPECIALLY if I am stitching with tearaway stabilizer or on fabric that sheds like Minkee or burlap or glitter vinyl appliques! Felt is another fabric that will fill your bobbin case with schmutz – not the technical term but dust and fuzz do not really describe what you will find in the bobbin area. And yes, I said tearaway stabilizer will create more schmutz in the bobbin case than other types of stabilizer – its the nature of the product. It tears away so the needle can shred it and down the hole in the throat plate go all the particles. And yes, some brands will create more or less particles than others.
In other words – for consistently successful embroidery, there are a couple of things you need to work out between you and your machine. Sounds like I’m giving relationship advice – how many of you are nodding and thinking this doesn’t sound far fetched? So here’s how to keep the honeymoon going (or getting it started!) First, you need to determine what “fiber ingredients” work best for you with the types of designs and projects you are stitching. What stabilizer, hooping technique, needle, thread in top and bobbin, topping, fabric stitching on, etc – all these make up the ingredients to the embroidery project at hand. How do you figure all this out? Pay attention to what your machine is doing. Listen to your machine as it stitches. Look at the stitching results on top of the hoop and underneath. If you make ONE adjustment, note it and see what changed – on top and on the backside of the hoop.
Part of the “paying attention to see what works” is also to note what is going on in the bobbin case. If you just finished appliqueing a bunch of burlap garden flags with glitter vinyl floated on a very papery tear away stabilizer – take a few moments to take out your bobbin and bobbin case. Notice anything different that when you were stitching cotton totes with simple monograms? Make a note. I bet you see schmutz.
I am definitely NOT saying that the only time you get schmutz in the bobbin case is when you stitch non-cotton fabrics! Holy smokes! The only time your bobbin case will remain pristine clean is if you don’t use your sewing/embroidery machine! It can’t be avoided, but if you want to continue successful embroidery, taking the time to make a few adjustments before the next project can save lots of headaches dealing with a problem. Clean the case. Change the needle. Inspect the thread cutter area under the throat plate. Just do a quick 1-2-3 check of everything and a quick clean and you’ll be more likely to continue successful embroidery.
Until next time – wishing you zero thread nests!
Yes, I am doing the happy dance and it is all because of you! Thank you so much for taking the time to vote for my blog and let me know that you like the information that I share with you. It really means alot.
Now don’t laugh, but I’ve been sitting here at the computer trying to think of something to write in addition to this, but I am at a loss for words. This has been a crazy week – I didn’t even post here that I found out that an article and project I had submitted to Creative Machine Embroidery magazine was not only featured on the front cover but also as a downloadable project!
I have a few things on my “Business Bucket List”, and one of them was to have something of mine featured on the cover of a magazine in my industry. I’ve been writing magazine articles for years, but they never made it to the front cover! So as I was browsing through Facebook with my morning coffee and feeling kind of giddy because my blog had made the top 4 in the Craftsy voting…and kapow! there was my tablet case! Thank you to the editors at CME for picking my project and showcasing it with such beautiful photography!
Now, if you visit the webpage, there are a few things to download. First the article with project instructions is always a good thing. Next there are the embroidery design files and applique templates. There are a few links on that page and they are only active for a set period of time, so be sure to get them while you can!
In case you were wondering – YES both designs were created using StitchArtist. I really liked the elegant form of the butterfly and knew that the interior holes would be a great job for my Brother ScanNCut. I love using the E-stitch for a finishing stitch for applique and I think it gave a delicate edge for this project. I’ll let you in on a secret — the flower designs were created to embellish the lining of a jacket I’m working on! When you want to embellish a lightweight material like jacket lining, you don’t want to use dense designs. Heavy embellishment on a lightweight fabric will change how it drapes and I didn’t want there to be any stabilizer left in the fabric when it was complete. So I’m working on that project in case you were wondering what else you could do with the designs!
So today’s post is going to be short and sweet — first and foremost because I really wanted it to be about thanking everyone that voted for my blog. I am honored and very appreciative. Second – because one of my sew-lutions this year was to be more consistent in my blog posting – once a week is the goal. Yes, I have 3 sew-lutions, which are sewing related resolutions – blog once a week, decrease the stash, and learn at least 3 new sewing techniques in 2015. And I think that this whole Craftsy blogger thing will be a motivation for me to stay on track.
Thank you again and hope you all have a wonderful week! Next blog post – back to the monkey in the box design so we can finish that up!
The final day of voting has arrived and I am so grateful to all of those that have taken the time to vote for my blog. The internet is a wonderful thing, but unlike presenting in person, its hard to know if your audience understands or even likes the information that you are presenting to them. I truly appreciate your feedback and will do my best to continue in this manner!
SO – this is Lilly the elephant. She’s a layered applique design with a couple of 3D items going on 🙂 Her tail is a simple bunco braid that is attached by the applique finishing stitch and she’s got fringe eyelashes! The fringe is part of StitchArtist Level 2 and I threw that in there because I think it adds a little something to the finished design without going over-board. Sure you could use this function to create a flapper dress style “fill” but I like to use it as a little bit of wow and it is very simple do do.
But first, Let me show you what the the original photo background looked like. When you open an image most of the time its in the orientation that we want to work with – but what if it isn’t? Use the rotation handle in the upper right corner just like you do on any selected object. So I enlarged the graphic and rotated it so that it was how I wanted to work with it and set the transparency to a lower value so it was less bold on my screen. I get distracted very easily – squirrel! – so I tend to plan my workspace so I am most productive.
If you look at the first color break in the design, it is a short little run – maybe 5 stitches. Its only job is to tell me where I need to put the tail down. Yes, I could have just guessed when the next run stitched which is the applique position – however I do not want to forget that I need the tail! In a month from now I can load this design to my machine and it will stitch color #1 and I will literally say “OH I almost forgot – I need to put the tail down, where is my yard?” Since I said this last night and I literally just digitized the design we all know in a month I will have no recollection until I trim the eyelashes and then its too late.
So let’s talk about those eyelashes! This is a StitchArtist Level 2 function as part of the column stitch – its actually a built in style! The column stitch is one of the most powerful tools when you want to create interesting designs. It is also how those swirly tatoo style fonts are created. The angle of the sitches curve or turn with the shape of the object so you may also hear this tool referred to as the “turning angle tool” in your research.
By the way, I am giving to you here, the SIMPLE “this is how you create this exact shape” explanation – so please check out the information in the StitchArtist section of the manual as well as the Embrilliance videos that show all the features and functions of this tool. If you just look at this example, you are getting a shotglass size dose of the 10 gallon drum of information and capabilities of this tool – so please don’t limit yourself and check it out!
So by selecting the column stitch Left/Right input method, I started on the right and clicked in my top bottom pattern in the order shown alternating top and bottom. I started on the right because I am used to demonstrating for a group of people and I like for my audience to see what is being created. It is perfectly OK to start on the left and go right, you just may need to change the Fringe direction. The direction is dictated by the 1-2 direction. I wanted the fringe to be loose on the side where the 2 was which is to the right of the 1 so I set it to Fringe Right. The fringe stitch is a satin stitch that has a locking running stitch on one side – this is what holds the top stitches in place in this case just like false eyelash glue 🙂
So how does this work at the machine? I’ve stitched my design completely. This photo does not have the finishing stitch done on the ear because I was running out of camera battery and wanted to get it all photographed. And yes I have navy bobbin thread in the machine because I was too tired to go get another bobbin plus the navy shows up nice against the white stabilizer 🙂 Laugh with me – its how I roll!
So the way I like to create the fringe – and remember my way is not the only way, we flip over the hoop and with sharp thin blade scissors trim JUST the bobbin thread for these stitches. Pictured here are the super thin and sharp Kai 5100DC scissors. They have a double curved handle so they are great going over the hoop for cutting jumps while your fabric is still in the hoop (between color changes is when I trim). This very thin blade is also perfect for sliding right underneath the bobbin stitches and cutting them cleanly.
The only threads you want to cut is the thread that is the underside of the satin stitch. DO NOT cut the running stitch as that is the only thing that is holding the loose threads in place! Be careful not to impale the fabric when using sharp scissors – I don’t even cut the stabilizer.
And if you have used a tearaway stabilizer for your project just be careful when you tear it away from the backside of areas like this. I’ve not had any fringe unravel on me after the fact but you don’t need to be giving it any excuse to misbehave. If you are a afraid of future wear and tear – a drop of fray check at either end should give you piece of mind. So once you carefully trim the bobbin stitches, flip over the project and carefully run your fingernail over the column stitch and the loops will pop up!
And here is a tilted side view of Lilly’s long and flirty eyelashes! I wanted a soft look which is why I only cut the bobbin thread. You can also cut the top thread on the fringe side (opposite the side of the run stitch) and they single threads will not be looped so they may have a more wild or organic look.
So here are the design files for today’s blog post. I hope that you enjoyed the information presented during this fun week of voting! No matter the outcome at midnight tonight – I thank you for your very visual support and appreciation of what I do! You have each made me feel very special – thank you!
I am so impressed with all of you for voting for my blog and boosting us to 300 votes! You really made my day. I wonder if we can get to 400 votes? Is that too much to ask? We have until Wednesday Jan 28th at 11:59PM MST so we shall see what happens in the next two days!
So todays free design is another that I have digitized in Embrilliance StitchArtist and it is an applique design. There are a couple of different things about this design – the finishing stitches are not the traditional machine embroidery satin stitch. You will also note when you watch the design stitch out that there are no jumps between the purple legs. I really don’t like to trim jumps and the machines just stitch faster when they travel vs having to slow down, lock, trim, relocate, lock, and ramp back up to speed. When you have run stitches that travel instead jumps that trim, the machine will just keep on the speed its going. So when ever possible I like to incorporating travel stitches into the designs I create – hiding them under stitches that will stitch/cover later.
Both of these items are very easy to accomplish in StitchArtist. First let’s talk about how to get the pretty motif stitch around the applique pieces. After creating the shape and choosing applique, I set the finishing stitch to None. If I am using a fabric cutter, I only select the Position stitch.
Yes, I could simply set this stitch type to a single run since I was planning to not have a material position stitch. However, I know me – I like to change my mind and setting it to be an applique stitch type gives me to flexibility to quickly add the material option in the future by checking the box. If I set it to a run and later decided I wanted the second run, I would have to copy and paste and make sure it was in the right order or change it from a run to an applique, set it to none and check both boxes. So I saved myself some extra work today by setting the shapes to applique none in the beginning.
OK, so I have no finishing stitch – how do I get that? I drew a line around the top part of the shape only along the outer edges and set it to a motif run. Because it was an open path, The decorative stitch of the turtle shell was going to cover the spots where the head and legs connected anyway!
And since the decorative stitching of the shell was going to cover the sections in between, I simply created short little single runs to travel from one leg to the next. Since these runs are connecting to the stitches before and after, you will want to turn off the ties if you have them set on your running stitch. There is no reason to lock these little runs as we want them to be a planned part of the design.
So here is the link to the Turtle files.
And if you have not yet voted for my blog before the cut off time, Please take a few moments to do so! I would certainly appreciate it! Thank you and enjoy!